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March 16

Android Battery

"Sony Xperia XA Ultra Dual", non-removable battery.

1) Is it possible to replace the non-removable battery by yourself or by sending it its company? If so, how, and Where could I send it to ("Sony" company of course) in UK in order to replace the battery to a new one?

Also, could I replace it to a larger "mAh" battery?

2) I did not receive a fast charger with it. After through research I couldn't find its integration. Is it possible to use a fast charger for this phone? If so, could you please display which one, what model, and so on. (talk) 11:47, 16 March 2018 (UTC)

It's a glued case, so replacing it is possible, but comparable to replacing a cracked screen. Most small independent phone shops can do this, or you can DIY: I think it's quite hard to get the batteries though - it's a phone-specific connector on it and there aren't a huge number in stock from most suppliers. Andy Dingley (talk) 13:19, 16 March 2018 (UTC)
Sony Xperia XA Ultra where released in July 2016 and already need a battery replacement? First check if your phone has a unusual battery drain when it is not used. Check if your charge drops more than 10% per hour no matter you dont use it. Allot of smartphones may develop issues with unneeded software running unnoticed in the background. --Kharon (talk) 11:24, 18 March 2018 (UTC)
All checked. Battery drains very quickly for no reason. I have to charge more than twice if I use it properly (but not fully). The, awaiting for charge completion, is even a bigger piss take; 1 hour and 40 minutes. Btw, is it possible to buy a fast charging charger for this phone? (talk) 16:11, 19 March 2018 (UTC)
[1] finds some possibilities. (talk) 22:11, 19 March 2018 (UTC)
100 minutes sounds about right for a 2,700mAh battery charging at a maximum of two amps. I wouldn't try to charge it any faster in case it overheats. Does your phone get hot even when you are not actively using it or charging it? The specifications say:
Stand-by Up to 558 h (2G) / Up to 708 h (3G)
Talk time Up to 13 h (2G) / Up to 12 h (3G)
Music play Up to 65 h
I would expect at least a third if these times from a 2-year-old battery. Dbfirs 22:26, 19 March 2018 (UTC)
Phones always contain their own charging circuitry that controls the charge speed, so if you're charging in 100 minutes the limitation is in the phone. Using a bigger charger won't help. Generally (because of how Li batteries work) the fastest charge is during the first 80% or so, after which it slows down a lot. So if you charge for 60 minutes you likely already near 80% charged, with the 40 minutes spent topping off the last 20%. It's actually better for the battery to disconnect the charger at 80% and there are apps that can do that for you automatically. The battery is good for a few hundred full cycles but the "wear" is almost entirely at the above 90% or below 10% charge levels: as long as you stay between those bounds you get almost unlimited use.

I read somewhere that Tesla cars advertise (say) a 200 mile range, but normally they stop charging at around 80% / 160 miles. You can charge them to 100% through a setting on the control screen but they advise only doing that if you're about to go on a long trip, since it affects the battery's lifetime, and those batteries are crazy expensive. (talk) 23:01, 19 March 2018 (UTC)

…if you're charging in 100 minutes the limitation is in the phone. This is incorrect. To "fast charge" you need to use a charger that supports it. The phone can't pull more current or voltage than that which the charger puts out. Fast charging involves using higher currents and voltages; see for example Quick Charge, Qualcomm's standard. -- (talk) 02:51, 20 March 2018 (UTC)
Good point, I checked and saw that the phone supports QC 2.0[2] though that too is circuitry in the phone. It sounds like OP may already be using it though, if they're getting a full charge in 100 minutes. If not, they should give it a try. It does make a lot of difference. My own phone takes several hours to charge by normal USB even with high-current chargers, but might be in the 100 minute range to get a full charge with QC2. It gets to around 90% in under an hour and I usually unplug it if I'm there to notice when it gets there. (talk) 05:09, 20 March 2018 (UTC)
Just as a quick note, at least for the benefit of others, 'normal USB even with high-current chargers' is easily largely irrelevant. Most phones won't try to draw more than 500 mA unless they have some sign from the charger it supports a higher current. While there are a few standards which are supposed to be unifying, their support is still fairly hit and miss particularly when you consider all the myriad of cheap Chinese phones. And even if the phone supports one of these standards, there's no guarantee the charger that came with the phone supports it. It may simply use some semi proprietary standard from whoever made it. Quite a lot of non OEM chargers support the iOS standard. If the chargers says it supports 2.1A or especially 2.4A it probably supports the iOS standard. It may not support any other standard. Some Android phones support this standard but by no means all. In other words, even if it's a 2.4A charger, it doesn't mean your phone is going to charge faster than 500mA with it. Some phones may also draw more perhaps 800-900 mA with or without (particularly cheap Chinese ones) some signal form the charger, but may also higher charging currents still at 5V under some conditions such as Quick Charge so even if your phone is using more than 500mA it doesn't mean it's using the maximum it's capable of using. Most phones will also adjust charging current if the there too much of a voltage sag for various reasons. So if the charger is crap, or you use a not very good long cable (2m or especially 3m), you may have slow charging even if the charger and phone are intercompatible at a higher current. Especially with 3m, I've found even the better looking and branded Chinese cables still have problems. Frankly I have doubts even many of the branded Amazon cables are that good. There are a bunch which are probably okay, when I was looking I looked for ones which mentioned a decent wire gauge, e.g. Volutz, Blitzwolf, Anker. Of course 3m is very demanding I suspect even with good cables you could still have limitations at some times. (If you're considering data, USB 3.0 is likely to have problems with more than 2m. For this reason, many don't bother to make type C 3m or if they do they mark them as charging only.) Incidentally the move to USB type C will hopefully finally give good compatibility with decent charging currents across devices. Nil Einne (talk) 10:19, 22 March 2018 (UTC)

March 18


In World War 2, was a blackout in force in Germany? Specifically, was one in force in January 1945? 2601:646:8E01:7E0B:0:0:0:64DA (talk) 02:28, 18 March 2018 (UTC)

You mean Blackout (wartime), collectively minimizing outdoor light? Dimadick (talk) 08:57, 18 March 2018 (UTC)

Yes, that's what I meant. 2601:646:8E01:7E0B:0:0:0:64DA (talk) 09:04, 18 March 2018 (UTC)
"The blackout was extremely closely observed in Nazi Germany – those that failed to black out properly risked being sent to a concentration camp. The main difference here is that the German blackout had to continue to be religiously observed throughout the war, as the risk of bombing in Berlin increased after 1943, while it decreased for London. Both cities blacked out, of course, but in Berlin the necessity was greater, as were the punishments for non compliance." Source: Life in Hitler's Capital with Roger Moorhouse. --Antiquary (talk) 10:03, 18 March 2018 (UTC)
Anedotal: I - central Europe / 72y - clearly remember incandescent bulbs / E27 / standard size which were painted (?) black with the exception of a smallish circular window on the bottom, possibly 1” / 2.5cm ø. The apartment of my parents was still hit and damaged but that was friendly fire by the defending artillery who may have run out of powder / motivation or trigonometry (see Vienna Offensive, if curious).
I think I eventually discarded them as WW III became less likely. Possibly prematurely. --Cookatoo.ergo.ZooM (talk) 16:29, 18 March 2018 (UTC)
@Cookatoo.ergo.ZooM: German WP has an article on these, including images (more on commons). Cheers  hugarheimur 17:05, 18 March 2018 (UTC)
We also have an article on Paul Ogorzow, a Berlin serial killer who operated during the blackout. There is an error in the lead paragraph though, the Berlin blackout was not "as a result of the Allied bombing of Berlin" but was instituted on 1 September 1939, two days before Britain and France declared war. [3] Alansplodge (talk) 22:56, 18 March 2018 (UTC)
Great, this will mean a considerable rewrite of at least one action scene :-/ Thanks anyway! 2601:646:8E01:7E0B:0:0:0:64DA (talk) 02:53, 19 March 2018 (UTC)

March 19

Spectacles for all ?

Are reading-glasses like these [4] factory made ? (If yes what are they known as ? ) Or are they just the brainchild of this brilliant south Indian politician ?  Jon Ascton  (talk) 02:55, 19 March 2018 (UTC)

Looks like they're broken. ←Baseball Bugs What's up, Doc? carrots→ 04:22, 19 March 2018 (UTC)
I've seen these glasses that split at the nose piece a few times and here are a batch of pics. Robert Joy's character Sid Hammerback wore them in CSI: NY. According to this a magnet is used to keep them together until you want to pull them apart. MarnetteD|Talk 04:51, 19 March 2018 (UTC)
So they're called CliC Adjustable Front Reading Glasses.--Shantavira|feed me 07:53, 19 March 2018 (UTC)
CLiC is one brand - but not the only one. This link [5] is to a UK manufacturer - and I suspect there are other around as well. Wymspen (talk) 12:58, 19 March 2018 (UTC)
  • They're either cheap or workable. The cheap ones are not workable.
If you want to make them, you need a central joint which doesn't wobble and is precisely located. Rare earth magnets make them easy to make without falling apart, but some extra location as a triangle of either ball bearings into cones, or small rollers between two balls, makes the difference from annoying to usable. Andy Dingley (talk) 16:53, 19 March 2018 (UTC)

permanent labels

I have some plastic storage bins that I'd like to label. Avery has both "removable" and "permanent" labels. The "removable" ones fall off right away and the "permanent" ones take longer but they still eventually fall off (like after some months or years, when the glue dries out).

I know there are ways to make stuff stay on permanently because bumper stickers don't fall off cars, even after years of sun and rain exposure. I just want to label some boxes that are stored in a closet, much milder conditions by comparison.

Any idea where I can get some blank labels that I can write on (magic marker is ok) and that really won't fall off? They shouldn't be too glossy since that makes the marker ink dry off or rub off.

Thanks! (talk) 18:24, 19 March 2018 (UTC)

If I was planning for the label lasting about as long as the storage bin, I'd get a permanent marker that's a contrasting color, write on the bin in big bold letters, wait for it to dry, then apply a coat of hair spray to it.
Or, if a relative insisted that I "do it right," cut a stencil and spray paint the words onto the bin, wait for that to dry, and then apply some sort of epoxy.
If I had to use labels, I'd get ones that are larger than what I need the words for, apply it with a wide margin, and then cover the edges of the label with duct tape or even Gorilla Tape. Ian.thomson (talk) 18:43, 19 March 2018 (UTC)
Thanks, most of the bins are dark blue (some are even black), so writing directly on them will be hard to read no matter what the marker color. So my idea is to use a light colored label. Hair spray to protect the marker ink is an interesting idea though. I don't care about neatness of the writing anywhere near enough to think of using a stencil. I'll check out Gorilla tape. Regular duct tape IME will turn into goo over time. I have plenty of clear packing tape and am trying to remember how well that holds up. I know it turns yellow but I'm not too bothered by that as long as it doesn't fall off. (talk) 19:32, 19 March 2018 (UTC)
By the way, my idea is to just put a number on each box, and photograph each box's contents with my phone while loading the boxes. So if I later want to find something, I can look for it in the photos and get the box number. Does that sound like it could work, and not slow the loading process too much? (talk) 19:38, 19 March 2018 (UTC)
There are fancy wide permanent markers that use very opaque silver or gold paint. They work quite well on many materials. Trust me, when you need a box, your phone will be elsewhere, or broken, or the battery will be dead ;-). --Stephan Schulz (talk) 19:51, 19 March 2018 (UTC)
Hmm, I might try one of those paint markers. You're undoubtedly right about the phone. I'd upload the pictures to a full sized computer or a server. I'm more wondering about the practicality of finding stuff given access to the pics, and of the hassle factor of taking them in the first place. Photographing a loaded box is useless because of the layers of crap in them occluding other crap. So there would have to be a series of pics taken during the loading process. Maybe a head mounted camera would be better than a phone, but I'm not going to buy one just for this. (talk) 20:24, 19 March 2018 (UTC)
My mom has some silver Sharpie markers that all but glow on solid black surfaces. Ian.thomson (talk) 20:28, 19 March 2018 (UTC)
Original research here: I use one of those yellow paint marker to label my garbage and recycling bins. The lettering fades after a year or two—but it's exposed to the weather. I bought the marker originally to label some MP3 players used by a trivia league, and those markings have completely gone after some years—but the MP3 players are handled a lot. On a storage bin that's kept indoors and isn't being handled all the time, the writing in paint should be more durable. -- (talk) 08:44, 20 March 2018 (UTC)
That's why I also recommended a layer of hairspray. It's the poor man's paint sealer. Ian.thomson (talk) 13:37, 20 March 2018 (UTC)
  • I've done all my labelling for the last few years with a Brother P-touch tape machine. They're pretty cheap, so's the tape. This is a smooth surfaced, black on colour, thermal print. Seems to last well - weather, heat, UV stable and the glue lasts too. Andy Dingley (talk) 21:27, 19 March 2018 (UTC)
    • Thanks, I have a P-touch as well. It's not what I want for this but it's good to know about the label durability, which I hadn't investigated before. The one I have uses 1/2" tape and I was thinking to use big labels on the boxes, with numbers at least 2 inches high so I could read them from a distance.

      Also maybe you're getting better deals than me, but around here the P-touch tape costs around 20 USD for 26 feet, and the label machine wastes tape on purpose by spewing an inch or so of blank tape on each side of the stuff you print. So printing a typical 5-letter label should take about 1" of tape but instead it takes over 3 inches, tripling the tape expenditure. It makes me dislike the product even though it works pretty well in other regards. When I use it, I usually wait til I want to make several labels, print them all in one go without much blank space in between, and cut them apart with a scissors. (talk) 22:08, 19 March 2018 (UTC)

  • I'm paying about £10, and yes, I only ever cut with scissors to save waste. If I need to move the tape to free the label I need I just print a (stored) tiny name and phone label, of which I always keep a few handy for labelling bits of kit. Andy Dingley (talk) 22:25, 19 March 2018 (UTC)
About twelve years ago, we bought pre-printed labels from Mabel's Labels (they also sell blanks) and, all those years later, the labels are still stuck on very well to Tupperware and similar plastics and yet come off cleanly when you actively peel them away. Rather astoundingly good considering the pittance we paid for them (and even at that it was part of a school fund-raising campaign). I try not to shill for anything on WP, but you did ask... Matt Deres (talk) 01:02, 20 March 2018 (UTC)
Thanks! I'm looking at that site now. I edited a bunch of tracking codes out of the url you posted, hope you don't mind. (talk) 05:11, 20 March 2018 (UTC)
Added: there are some nice ones on the site, but they are VERY expensive now (no idea about 12 years ago). The ones I like best are the "trunk labels" which are $5 per label! They have "storage bin labels" that are smaller than I prefer. Those are $21 for 27 labels, with total area less than one 8.5x11" page. Yeah they print stuff on them, but overall they're out of my league. Added: I found some vinyl automobile bumper sticker material (won't link to Spamazon but you can search for B0742H5FJK) for $5 an 8.5x11" sheet, so I might try that. There's also other stuff of that type. I still appreciate having heard about Mabel's since looking at their site gave me the idea of looking for bumper sticker materials. (talk) 05:34, 20 March 2018 (UTC)
Your best bet is a Sharpie. They come in many colors. Silver really stands out on a dark surface. As to automobile bumpers, wouldn't they be bolted on rather than glued? ←Baseball Bugs What's up, Doc? carrots→ 11:02, 20 March 2018 (UTC)
Bumper stickers, Bugs. {The poster formerly known as} (talk) 14:06, 20 March 2018 (UTC)
Sharpies are not very permanent on many plastics. The can wear off after a few months of regular use. --Jayron32 13:05, 20 March 2018 (UTC)
That's what the hairspray is for, to seal it. Ian.thomson (talk) 13:37, 20 March 2018 (UTC)
Black Sharpies are usually better than other colours, and other brands, but these markers nearly all tend to fade under UV. For labelling long-term like this, I always use pigment markers, rather than dye markers. Mostly Japanese calligraphy markers. Andy Dingley (talk) 12:58, 21 March 2018 (UTC)

March 20

How many times has Donald Trump been deposed?

More generally, on how many occasions has Donald Trump given live, sworn testimony under adversarial circumstances (i.e., examined by opposing counsel or law enforcement officials as part of a civil or criminal legal proceeding), under penalty of perjury?

Essentially, I'm curious about how much experience Trump has with being questioned under oath. How novel an experience would it be for Trump, and how recently has he had to brush up on the skills involved? (The context prompting such curiosity should be fairly obvious.) Legal affairs of Donald Trump refers to his involvement or association with thousands of lawsuits where he was directly or indirectly a party, but I would expect most cases are settled, dismissed, or otherwise resolved without requiring Trump's direct questioning in or out of court. For the purposes of this question, affidavits and sworn statements don't count. Written responses to questions (vetted and proofread by his lawyers) don't count either; I'm looking for live questioning by adversaries only. TenOfAllTrades(talk) 13:40, 20 March 2018 (UTC)

Here's one [6] and possibly more - it's a very long document. (talk) 14:31, 20 March 2018 (UTC)
Reading that document, I now understand the section heading. In Britain, the phrase "been deposed" means "removed from office". In America it appears to mean what we would express by "How many times has Donald Trump been formally examined?". I'm not sure if the other meaning is also current in America. In England, giving a deposition means making a formal statement - there's no element of questioning. See Deposition (law). (talk) 14:53, 20 March 2018 (UTC)
Another one: [7] (talk) 15:35, 20 March 2018 (UTC)
Here in America, the other meaning of the word "deposed" specifically means "removed from office by force" -- and in that sense, President Trump has never been deposed and never will be. 2601:646:8E01:7E0B:0:0:0:9ED6 (talk) 04:54, 21 March 2018 (UTC)
There in America, many said never when he proposed taking office. Even while he was supposed to grab it. It's not too late to hedge your bet. InedibleHulk (talk) 10:29, March 21, 2018 (UTC)
One more [8]. Probably the tip of the iceberg. (talk) 11:56, 21 March 2018 (UTC)
Here are two American dictionaries that disagree with 2601's implication of "by force". [9] [10] Now if there's more to say on the actual question... -- (talk) 18:47, 21 March 2018 (UTC)

Rearranging Great Wall template

The template is a bit misleading in make it appear that the Great Wall goes from east to west like a straight line. The Ming dynasty wall had an outer wall and inner wall and a spur going down Shanxi. for an illustration (remove double dash because domain name is blocked for whatever reason. I'm going to try to rearrange the template to reflect the depth of the Great Wall.

Is Niangzi Pass the only location in the template that is part of the spur through Shanxi? Which locations in the template are part of the inner wall? Muzzleflash (talk) 17:50, 20 March 2018 (UTC)

March 21

Though not a guide specifically, am I able to include what conditions an insect should be kept in?


Sorry if the title is confusing, but I have a question. I recently edited Psuedocreobotra wahlbergi, (the environmental conditions when kept as pets) and had it include what conditions are suitable for it if you were to keep it as a pet. I then read what Wikipedia is not, and I am wondering if what I included is a guide.

Thank you for reading and I hope you can help. Also, sorry if none of that made sense, it didn't really to me, either.

thatsneezingkid (talk) 19:42, 21 March 2018 (UTC)

I think phrasing is really the only issue. WP:NOTGUIDE doesn't mean that we can't have information that's useful to pet owners, it just means we can't give direct instructions. For example, Cat mentions they're obligate carnivores that hunt small prey. Any reasonable reader should be able to conclude that it'd be all kinds of abuse to put a cat on a vegan diet with unrestricted and unsupervised access to pet hamsters, but we don't actually say "you must feed cats food with animal protein and you should be very careful letting them interact with smaller pets."
Looking over your edit, there are a few points where you give specific direction. Try to remove or change any instance of "should" or "make sure" or anything along those lines. Ian.thomson (talk) 21:09, 21 March 2018 (UTC)

March 23

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